#Retro #Scandi #Tote #Tutorial #FreeTutorial.net
This go-to tote is functional, practical and stylish! I wanted to design something which wasn’t too over engineered and fussy, that had pockets, and that could be folded and rolled to take on shopping trips. Having tested my bag on a trip to the shops I can confirm it does indeed tick all these boxes!
MATERIALS
50cm (⅝yd) black fabric for the outer
70cm (⅞yd) mustard fabric for the lining
One fat quarter feature fabric for the front pocket
50cm (⅝yd) H630 fusible wadding
One fat quarter S320 fusible interfacing
One black 18cm (7in) zipper
Four black leather strips, each 2.5 x 50cm (1 x 20in)
Eight medium brass Chicago Screws
Three black Kam snaps, size 20
Coordinating threads
15cm (5in) ribbon scrap for the zipper pull
Fabric pen or pencil
Leather hole punch
FINISHED SIZE
Approx. 40cm (15¾in) square
PREPARATION
All measurements are given width x height and include ¼in seam allowances, unless otherwise stated
Cutting instructions
1 From the outer fabric, the lining and the H630 wadding cut two rectangles each measuring 16½in wide x 18in long.
2 For the front slip pocket cut:
• One 9⅞in square of S320 fusible interfacing
• One 10⅝in square of outer fabric
• One 10⅝in square of lining fabric
3 For the interior slip pockets cut:
• Two 8⅜ x 5¼in pieces of S320 interfacing
• Four 9⅛ x 6in pieces of lining fabric 4 For the zipper pocket, cut a 9in wide x 15¾in long strip of lining fabric.
Making the bag outer
1 Fuse the H630 wadding rectangles to the wrong side of the two outer fabric rectangles.
2 Place the S320 interfacing for the front slip pocket onto the wrong side of the 10⅝in square of outer fabric, making sure it is in the centre. Fuse in place.
3 Take the two S320 pieces of interfacing for the interior slip pockets and place them onto the wrong side of the two 9 x 6in pieces of lining fabric. Fuse in place.
Chicago Screws
Chicago screws are a remnant of the publishing industry where they were used to bind papers together. They are great for bag makers because they are easy to use and durable. There are no rules, but the usual way of putting them on is with the flat side out, however I like the screw side better so my preference is for that part to be showing. Choose which you prefer.
4 Prepare the front slip pocket by taking the interfaced outer from step 2 and placing it on top of the 10⅝in square of lining fabric, right sides together. Pin, then sew around the very edge of the interfacing, leaving a turning gap in the bottom. Trim the seam allowance to ¼in and clip across the corners to reduce bulk. Fig 1
5 Turn the pocket out through the gap and press so that the edges are crisp.
6 Repeat steps 4 and 5 to prepare the two interior slip pockets.
7 To make the zipper pocket place the 9 x 15¾in strip of lining fabric on a surface right side down. Following Fig 2 take a pencil or fabric pen and draw a ⅜in deep x 7in wide box, 1in down from the top of the fabric. This is the sewing line. Mark another line along the centre of the box with two angles at each end, as shown in Fig 3. This will be the cutting line.
8 Place the zipper box lining on one of the bag outers, right sides together. Make sure it is centred, with the top of the lining fabric 3in down from the top of the bag outer. Pin, then stitch around the outer (sewing) line then cut along the central (cutting) line including the angles at each end. ‘Post’ the pocket lining through the hole and smooth it out on the back and press. Topstitch the zip into place then complete the pocket by bringing the two short ends of the lining together and sewing the sides and top.
9 Turn the bag front over, so the wrong side is facing you, and lift the zipper box pocket lining up out of the way and pin. Turn the bag front over so it is right side up and place the large slip pocket 1⅜in below the zip. Pin in position and topstitch around the sides and bottom using a very narrow topstitch in a coordinating thread.
10 Thread a piece of ribbon through the zipper pull. Place a black
Kam snap in the centre of the front pocket, about ¾in down from the top.
This prevents the bag from sagging when the pocket is filled. Fig 4
11 Take the bag back panel and place it on top of the front, right sides together. Sew along the two sides and bottom.
12 To create a square base box the corners by drawing then cutting a 1½in square on the bottom of each side. Fig 5
13 Pinch the corners and pull them apart to create a straight edge, then sew across, taking care to line up the bottom seams.
Assembling the bag
1 Take both 16½ x 18in lining pieces and place a slip pocket on each, in the centre and 4¾in down from the top. Pin, then topstitch around the sides and bottom to hold in place. If you wish, add another line of stitching to divide up the pocket into compartments.
2 Place the lining pieces right sides together and stitch down the two sides and along the bottom, leave a 4in turning gap in the centre of the bottom. Box the corners using the same method as before when making the outer.
3 Make a strap by taking two leather strips and placing them wrong (suede) sides together. Use a glue stick (sparingly) to hold them in place and stitch all the way around with a coordinating thread, Fig 6. Repeat to make a second handle.
4 Punch two holes in each end of the straps, approximately ⅜in in from the bottom edge and the next one the same distance up. Debbie recommends measuring the post of the Chicago Screws before you start and making the hole the same size. Fig 7
5 With the bag outer the right way out and the lining inside out,
pull the lining up over the bag outer and line up the top seams. Sew
around the top edge then turn the bag out through the gap in the lining.
Hand sew the gap in the lining closed.
6 Push the lining down
into the bag and topstitch around the top. This will keep the lining in
its place. Debbie used different bobbin and top threads so they
coordinated with the two fabrics.
7 Attach the handles using the Chicago Screws. The handles are sited 4¼in in from each outer edge. Fig 8
8 Attach a Kam snap in the middle of the top edge to keep the bag closed.
